I have lived in Hertfordshire for years and I’m a qualified tour guide not only in Hertford but also in St Albans and beyond. I love all things history, castles, palaces and churches, but my special interests are ghosts and folklore as well as crime and punishment.
Hertford is less than an hour from London by train, and its rich history makes it - in my view - a perfect choice for a day trip. The town centre is very compact, so all the activities and attractions are within easy reach.
It’s also a town that has so much waiting to be discovered. Hertford is a good starting point for walks and there are several cycle routes, while the rivers, canal, nearby countryside and wide variety of buildings make it a photographer’s delight.
If you’re planning a day trip to Hertford, here’s how I’d spend it.
Getting to Hertford by train
Getting to Hertford is easy and convenient, whether you’re travelling from London, Hertfordshire, or Cambridgeshire. Great Northern trains run to Hertford North station, with direct services from London stations including Old Street, Essex Road, Highbury & Islington and Finsbury Park.
From Hertford North station, it’s a flat walk of around 10-15 minutes into the town centre. That means you can start exploring almost as soon as you arrive. Hertford is compact enough to explore on foot, so you can fit a lot into one day without spending your time travelling between attractions.
My recommendations for the best things to do in Hertford
There’s plenty to see in Hertford, and the walk from the station takes in many of the town’s must-see sights and gives you an introduction to Hertford’s history before you even reach the town centre.
Start with Hertford’s fascinating history
Hertford has a remarkable amount of history packed into a relatively small area. In the 9th century, the River Lea was the boundary between the Kingdom of Wessex, ruled by Alfred the Great, and the Danelaw. Hertford itself was founded in the 10th century to protect the ford and push back the Danes.
Walking from the station, look out for the Verger’s House on St Andrew Street, one of the oldest and most beautiful houses in Hertford, dating from around 1450. You’ll then pass Wallace House, where there’s a plaque marking the time Alfred Russel Wallace lived there. Independently of Darwin, Wallace came up with the theory of evolution.
From there, you can see the statue of Samuel Stone, who was born here in Hertford, emigrated to America in 1633, and founded Hartford, Connecticut.
Historic details to spot
As the county town, Hertford was home to the Assizes, with Shire Hall on Fore Street housing the court and assembly rooms. Among those tried there were several notorious highwaymen.
There are plenty of other details to spot as you continue through the centre, from the colourful Egyptian House to the Corn Exchange, which stands on the site of the 18th-century gaol, and the Quaker Meeting House in Railway Street.
A few steps away in Bull Plain is Beadle House, which has a connection to Thomas Dimsdale, a pioneer in inoculation against smallpox. That’s a lot of history before you’ve even stopped for lunch.
Visit Hertford Castle
Hertford Castle is one of the town’s best-known landmarks, but there’s much more to it than simply being a picturesque place to visit.
The castle grounds are a lovely oasis in the town centre, and throughout the year there are events catering for all tastes, from Dark Skies and classic cars to teddy bears’ picnics, open days and a Christmas Market.
The history is just as fascinating. The wooden castle built by William the Conqueror was rebuilt by Henry II in flint, and you can still see part of the 12th-century outer walls. In 1216, the castle was besieged by the French.
The impressive gatehouse was built by Edward IV, grandfather of Henry VIII, in the mid-15th century. Henry VIII used the royal palace as a nursery for his children, while both Elizabeth I and Edward VI spent time at the castle. Edward was here when his father died and he succeeded to the throne.
There are even remnants of the castle’s double moat, now partly a garden, as well as the remains of an ice house. For me, that combination of history and the surrounding grounds is what makes Hertford Castle such an important stop on a day out in Hertford.
Plan your visit to Hertford Castle
Walk beside the River Lea
One of the things visitors can easily overlook about Hertford is just how good it is for walking. Hartham Common is an ideal base from which to explore the surrounding green spaces and nature reserves, including King’s Meads. There are circular walks on the common, as well as routes that take you further afield.
One of my favourite options is the picturesque canal-side walk from Hertford to Ware, which takes around 45 minutes. You can walk back afterwards, or take the train or bus back to Hertford.
If you’re looking for walks in Hertfordshire, there are longer options too. The Hertford and Ware walk from Hartham Common covers around 5.75 miles, while the wider area connects with the Hertfordshire Chain Walk and Hertfordshire Way.
Hertford is a good starting point for rambles, with several cycle routes too, and I particularly like the way the rivers, canal and countryside sit alongside the historic town.
Discover Hertford Museum
If you’re looking for things to do in Hertford when you want to spend some time indoors, make time for Hertford Museum. Admission is free, with permanent displays on the history of the town, including a model of the castle and a missile from the siege.
There is something for all ages. You can admire a suit of Samurai armour and fossils, while one of the museum's more unusual collections forms part of what is described as the largest collection of toothbrushes in the UK.
There’s also a programme of special exhibitions focusing on the local area, plus a Jacobean-style garden at the rear. The museum and the town’s Tourist Information Centre also run guided tours.
Plan your visit to Hertford Museum
See Hertford Theatre, now BEAM
For another side of the town’s cultural scene, head to BEAM, formerly Hertford Theatre. It’s a modern, vibrant hub where arts come alive, with music, theatre, comedy and film. You can catch the latest films, see a live concert, take in a play or enjoy a comedy show.
The café overlooks the riverside walk, making it another option if you want to combine culture with some time beside the water.
If you’re searching for Hertford Theatre, remember that the venue is now called BEAM. Check the programme before you travel if you’re planning your visit around a particular performance or screening.
Plan your visit to BEAM Hertford
Browse the shops and Hertford Market
Hertford town centre is a great place for browsing. The historic buildings provide the setting for independent shops, boutiques and places to eat, while Courtyard Arts is a creative hub with two galleries, a shop and two teaching studios. It has been a meeting place for creative minds for 30 years.
I think the town’s independent character is one of its real strengths. You can combine exploring the history and beautiful buildings with finding somewhere for coffee, browsing the shops or picking up something you won’t find on every high street.
If you’re visiting on a Saturday, make time for Hertford Market. The lively weekly market takes place across Salisbury Square, Maidenhead Street, Railway Street and Bircherley Green, with stalls selling fruit and vegetables, fish, plants and flowers, fashion, eggs, meat, bread, pastries, art, chocolate and more.
There’s also a monthly Farmers’ Market on the second Saturday of the month.
Where to eat: Hertford restaurants, cafés and pubs
Hertford is home to a range of independent cafés and coffee shops, many with outdoor seating, so you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to finding somewhere to stop.
For lunch, Brad & Dills on Market Place is an independent coffee and bagel house. If you fancy something sweet later in the day, Tilly’s Gelato on Railway Street is another local option, while Lussmanns Brasserie on Fore Street offers a more substantial meal.
There’s also a lively evening scene, with plenty of Hertford restaurants and pubs where you can eat, drink, listen to live music or watch a show.
Discover Hertford’s brewing history
Hertford’s food and drink scene is closely connected to its history. Along with neighbouring Ware, Hertford has been described as being at the cradle of the brewing industry, with many breweries and maltings once operating in the area. One particularly picturesque malting is by the river close to Folly Island.
McMullen’s is the local brewery, and has been brewing beer and running pubs since 1827. Its Victorian Brewery remains a landmark in the town and is a fine example of a Tower brewery.
There’s also a good selection of free houses, from the canal-side Old Barge to the White Horse, Old Cross Tavern and Black Horse, all with a full selection of real ales. The Salisbury Arms is another atmospheric historic pub.
So if you’re looking for pubs in Hertford, there are plenty of places where you can combine a drink or meal with some fascinating local history.
My one-day Hertford itinerary
If you only have one day to spend in Hertford, I’d keep it simple. The town’s compact centre means you can combine several attractions without rushing from one side of town to the other.
Morning
- Arrive at Hertford North station
- Walk into Hertford town centre
- Follow some of the historic streets and Heritage Trail
- See the Verger’s House, Wallace House and Shire Hall
- Explore Hertford Castle and its grounds
Lunch
- Stop at one of Hertford’s independent cafés, restaurants or pubs
- If you’re visiting on a Saturday, browse the market first
Afternoon
- Visit Hertford Museum
- Continue along the River Lea towards the basin
- Walk through Hartham Common
- Or follow the canal-side route towards Ware
Before heading home
- Stop for coffee, gelato or a drink
- Have a look around the independent shops
- Check what’s on at BEAM if you’re staying into the evening
This itinerary gives you a chance to follow the route I’d recommend to a first-time visitor, rather than trying to tick off every attraction.
More walks in and around Hertford
If you have more time, Hertford makes a good base for exploring the surrounding countryside.
Panshanger Park is a short bus ride from the town centre or station and is home to the Panshanger Great Oak, believed to be over 800 years old. It’s the oldest oak in Hertfordshire and one of the oldest in the country. There is abundant wildlife, and in September you might be lucky enough to spot ospreys on their migration back to Africa. The park was originally laid out by Humphry Repton and there are regular guided nature walks.
One route I particularly like takes you from the Thieves Lane car park, close to the bus stop, up to the site of the house and the Panshanger Great Oak, before returning down along the Broadwater.
The park also caters for cyclists and runners, while the Mary Purver path takes you from Panshanger to the village of Hertingfordbury.
A little further afield, the Cole Green Way starts at the football ground and follows the route of an old railway line. You can also walk part of the Hertfordshire Chain Walk or Hertfordshire Way.
Find more walks in Hertfordshire
Things to do in Hertford with children
Hertford is well catered for families, with plenty of ways to mix history and culture with time outdoors.
There are regular trails around the town for children during the school holidays, while Hertford Museum, BEAM and Courtyard Arts all host children’s activities at certain times of the year.
Hartham Common and Hertford Castle both have play areas, and there is a Teddy Bear’s Picnic at the castle in July.
Panshanger Park also offers monthly Nature Explorers sessions for children, with games, activities and exploration led by trained volunteers.
Why I’ll always recommend a day trip to Hertford
What I think visitors sometimes overlook is how much variety Hertford offers in such a small area.
You can start with medieval history, walk through the castle grounds, stop for lunch, visit a free museum and then be beside the river or walking through open countryside. You can browse independent shops, find a traditional pub or follow the canal towards Ware.
And because Hertford North station is only a short walk from the town centre, you can do all of that without needing a car.
For me, Hertford is at its best when you give yourself time to look beyond the obvious sights. There are historic buildings around almost every corner, waterways and green spaces to explore, and plenty of stories behind the places you pass.
It’s a town where I never seem to run out of things to show people, which is why I think Hertford is well worth getting to know.
About the author: Elizabeth Eastwood is a Blue Badge tourist guide who knows Hertfordshire inside out. Based in the county, she leads tours that uncover the history, characters and stories behind its towns and landscapes. She has a particular passion for bringing local history to life, whether that's exploring Roman Hertfordshire, medieval streets or the lesser-known stories hiding in plain sight.
