Did you know there’s a place in England that’s named after eels? I didn’t, until I visited Ely in Cambridgeshire. It takes just over an hour on the train from London and is 14 miles north of its more famous counterpart, Cambridge. It’s the perfect place for a quintessentially English day out - without the crowds of tourists. There are lots of things to do in Ely, so I’ve put together this itinerary to help you make the most of your day trip. Let’s go!
What is special about Ely?
Forget your typical town fair, every year Ely throws a party for its slippery namesake - the Ely Eel Festival. Each early May bank holiday, the people of Ely throw a full-on, slightly bonkers, and utterly amazing celebration of not only the eel, but the best of English culture. Think: Morris dancers, a parade, live entertainment, and tons of fun and community spirit.
But wait, it gets even more… unique. There’s even an eel-throwing competition. Now, before you start filing a complaint, no actual eels are harmed in this gloriously odd contest. Back in the day, resourceful locals would fashion makeshift "eels" from socks rolled into tights, weighed down with rice. These days, they've upgraded to specially crafted toy eels, ensuring the tradition continues with a touch of modern practicality.
A quintessentially English escape to Ely: itinerary
Whether you’re visiting for the eel festival or to discover somewhere new, there are lots of things to do and discover in Ely. This is my recommended itinerary, with my favourite things to do and must-visit attractions in Ely.
Getting to Ely by train
Ely is easily accessible on the Great Northern rail network. It takes just over an hour from London King’s Cross (an hour and 11 minutes to be exact), and is a couple of stops after Cambridge. The railway station is just as quaint as you would imagine, and is the perfect start to your day out. Head out of the station and up towards the city centre, past beds of flowers and charming cottages. It takes no time at all (it took me about 10 minutes). Ready for our first stop: the cathedral.
Ely Cathedral
As you walk the short distance from Ely railway station into the main centre, the huge cathedral starts coming into view. It truly is spectacular, and completely dominates the skyline. It has a lot of historical significance, too. The current building was completed in 1342, but the cathedral can actually trace its origin all the way back to the abbey that was founded in 672. That’s a lot of history.
The first part of the cathedral is free to enter, so take a step inside and make sure you look up and all around at the stunning stained glass and ornate ceilings. To explore the entire cathedral (and there’s a lot to explore) you can buy a ticket for £14, with children under 16 going free. Upstairs, there’s a stained glass museum which displays over 125 stained glass panels - some even dating as far back as the 13th century.
Once you experience the incredible grandeur of the cathedral, you’ll realise why it’s been chosen as the filming location for several famous films and TV shows. These include Elizabeth: The Golden Age (2007), The Other Boleyn Girl (2008), The King's Speech (2010), and Maestro (2023). The cathedral has also been used as a stand-in for other locations, such as Westminster Abbey for scenes in Netflix’s The Crown. You can read more about visiting film locations on our set-jetting page. Next, on to the historical home of a very famous English figure.
What famous person lived in Ely?
A short stroll from the cathedral you’ll find Oliver Cromwell’s House, a timber-framed building that offers a glimpse into the life of one of England's most controversial figures. This is also the main tourist hub for Ely, so you can find answers to all of your questions from the friendly staff. Grab your tickets from the main desk (there are special family group tickets available) and set off on a self-guided tour around the house.
You’ll learn all about Oliver Cromwell and his place in English history, and it really is incredible to think this was the actual place where he lived and made decisions that would change the lives of the English forever. The haunted bedroom is a particular highlight - if you’re brave enough to stay inside (I wasn’t). This is definitely a must-visit attraction.
Food and drink in Ely
Once you’ve worked up an appetite, a visit to Grain Culture’s General Store should be your next stop. This small, independent bakery exudes a warm and inviting atmosphere, and they have a great selection of cakes, buns and pastries. They source all their ingredients locally and it’s less than a 5-minute walk from Oliver Cromwell’s house. This is the sort of place that embodies the quintessentially English essence of Ely - so take a seat in the cosy garden and enjoy a tasty treat.
Then, another short walk from the city centre takes you through a picturesque park to Ely Riverside, where you’ll find plenty of pubs, restaurants and cafes on the water’s edge. This is such a tranquil setting for a meal or drink - especially on a sunny day. For the ultimate English experience, make sure you head to Peacock’s tea room for a traditional cream tea. This gorgeous café has a beautiful wisteria growing up the entire front of the building, and you can either sit inside (which feels like it’s straight out of a children’s book with wooden furniture and ornate tea cups) or outside in the garden.
I had a chat with one of the tearoom’s servers, Max, after asking how he enjoys Ely and noticing a slight accent. "I'm originally from Ayrshire, but my dad works in air traffic control at Cambridge airport, which brought us to Ely," he explained with a friendly smile. So what are Max’s favourite parts of Ely? "I really love the market and the Eel Festival, the atmosphere is amazing!"
Is it worth visiting Ely?
If you want a mix of history, culture and delicious food and drink, then Ely is a must. It’s a bit of a hidden gem really, as it’s considerably less busy than places like Oxford, Cambridge or Canterbury. You can enjoy a truly relaxing day, and all of the attractions and food offerings are within a short walk of the railway station.
To really make the most of your visit and uncover everything that Ely has to offer, I highly recommend downloading the Visit Ely smartphone app. It’s the perfect resource for navigating the city, discovering local events, and delving deeper into Ely’s history and culture. So, if you're seeking a quintessentially English escape that offers beauty, history, and a break from the crowds, you’ve found it.